Friday, December 23, 2011

Lunch in River North: M Burger


Cuisine: Fast-food/ Hamburgers
Location: 161 E Huron, Chicago, IL
Price: $
Food: ***
Service: Counter service
Overall: ***

Last summer, while scouring the immediate vicinity of my workplace for feasible lunchtime options, I was pointed toward M Burger, Lettuce Entertain You’s answer to fast-food hamburgers. And I remembered it being glorious – thick, creamy milkshakes, delicious hamburgers (with a secret menu, to boot!), and crispy crunchy fries. However, because of M burger’s downtown location, I was left with nothing more than ethereal memories of lunchtime greasy fast food gluttony once my schooling days resumed at Northwestern.
Fast forward to me now, being all boss-like with a job and what not in the real world – as luck would have it, I work a five minute walk from where I did last summer, which, amazingly, places me within walking distance of not one but two M Burger locations! Oh, the options! I could go to one today and the other one tomorrow! I could go to one constantly and establish myself as a regular! I could work for a whole month and not go to either because I have no money and would prefer to bring lunches!1 But on the last working day of the 2011 calendar year, with nothing better to do than sit in the office vegetating while staring blithely at a computer screen, I decided to further my state of extreme inactivity by going out to get some M Burger and stuffing my face for lunch.

10 dollars later, I returned to my office, double M burger, fries, and a vanilla shake in hand. After the meticulous process of positioning everything so I can snap a photo of it to deliver to my legion of salivating fans, the eating process begins.

It begins with a solitary fry, plucked from the depths of the brown paper bag – one of the extra spillovers, scooped up by my greedy, grubby fingers and shoveled into my mouth. The crisp snap of a well-fried French fry, followed by a salty burst of flavor – just the way I remembered it! They avoid the dangerous limp-fry syndrome that McD’s displays all too often, and are liberally salted to the point where eating one starts you off on a vicious cycle of cramming the whole bag into your face within seconds. Delicious!
To top off the salty taste, I take a big gulp of my vanilla milkshake – and it is wondrous. It is thick without being concrete, and a beautiful blend of milk and cream that makes it feel like liquid ice cream in your mouth. For the milkshake alone, M Burger is a wild success – especially for someone like me who considers ice cream to be an all-seasons kind of food, I would make the trek there just for the milkshake. It doesn’t hurt that they have flavors of the month that keep changing to add variety to their menu.
Finally, the piece de resistance – the burger. I’ve opted for the M burger, which comes with cheese, bacon, and their secret sauce – which, like every other secret sauce in the world, uses thousand island as a base. I take a big chomp out of it, sending meat, lettuce, sauce, the works into my mouth. Pause, then… sadness. It’s on the salty side, the meat is tender and the sauce is sweet and tangy, but together, there’s just nothing special about the burger. It’s certainly not bad – it’s just not great, not what my year-old memory of it remembered it being. Was it the trips to Edzo’s, Kuma’s, and DMK’s that jaded me so? Have I reached a level of burger snobbiness that renders me impervious to cheaper offerings now?
Part of it, I think, is my newfound love for medium rare burgers – something fast-food restaurants simply cannot deliver due to the efficiency with which the burgers come out, plus what I imagine is the danger of undercooking them if they try and make each one medium-rare (just my hypothesis). I’ve tried to make my own burger patties at home medium-rare before, and I either am worried about the degree of doneness and they sit for too long, or I pull them too quickly and they’re under. Or I’ll try and wick off a little slice to check how pink the center is, and the entire thing crumbles into shards and pieces. So I understand it’s a tough process.
Bottom line: M Burger’s shakes are to die for, their fries are very good, but their burger is just good. Not that I won’t give them a chance to prove me wrong – I love fast food burgers too much not to go back and pray that I’ll get a perfect juicy burger slathered with secret sauce that makes me go “MMMMMMM M BURGER MMMMMMM YES!” Until then, though, my memory of burgers past will have to do.



1. Guess which category I fell under?

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